Departing from Perth WA –
Heading Northwards through Central Western Australia
Departing 07-05-2009 for Dalwallinu, Mt
Magnet & Cue.
Newman,
Karijini & Port Hedland.
Fitzroy
Crossing, Halls Creek, Kununurra and off to N.T.
Perth to Dalwallinu, Mount Magnet & Cue.
Preparation
was ongoing for months with everything ready including the brand new set of
window protectors Mary made for the caravan and even though her new glasses
haven’t arrived (now on their third attempt at getting it right) we left at
11:00AM. Thanks to Kevy we went through 2 hours of road works on the Great
Northern Highway – stop/start, stop/start 40,60,80,40k stop/start etc – that
turned what was to be an easy first step into hard work. On arrival in
Dalwallinu we were met by Trish at the Dalwallinu Shire Caravan Park and were
informed that those in the know come from Perth via the Great Eastern Highway
and Northam which although longer is quicker. We 
decided to have two days here so as to give us
time to do one or two of their recommended drives. After visiting the local
information center we set out on suggested self drive tour number 1. Our first
stop was the site of the first fatal commercial air crash in Western Australia.
It is marked with a plaque at the entrance to the Pithara speedway and 
a large rock is placed in the distance to mark
the actual impact site. Next it was off to Petrudor Rock, which is a pretty
picnic spot enjoyed by the locals and is probably best viewed in other than the
end of a dry summer when it has just dried out. Dalwallinu would be a
spectacular place to visit in the wildflower season!! From there we cut across
and joined self drive tour number 2 which 
took us to the 1927 Xantippe Tank then on to
the old No. 2 rabbit proof fence. Next we saw the Rock Hole which was a water
supply for the fence rider and it was here that we came across a little ant
eater that had made it his home and he didn’t care who else was their. We then
decided to re-join our original tour No.1 and head back to the caravan park –
131 km covered. In the evening we ran into some more new friends in Oscar &
Jenny. They are from New Zealand and Oscar is seeding at a local farm. As 
we were told by the park manager it was OK to
light the camp fire we cooked our meals in the camp kitchen next to it and
shared our bottle of New Zealand Riesling that was given to us as a departure
gift from David & Merrilyn. Thanks guys it was great! Mothers Day and we
are off to Mount Magnet. On the way we stopped at Paynes Find to take a look at
the gold battery but unfortunately after walking the 900 metres (to stretch the
legs) to get to it we found it was closed. From there it was only a short hop
to arrive in Mount Magnet in time for the Eagles game – Yay we won! Monday
morning and we went on the self-drive Mount Magnet Tourist Trail with our first
stop being the Granites where we saw some aboriginal paintings in a small cave.
Next we moved on to the Lennonville Township site and railway crossing where
anyone who finds any artifacts or old tools etc leaves them on the remains of
the railway siding for all to enjoy. We of course foraged around for long
enough to be able to add a contribution each. The drive then continues on to
see a cave and natural amphitheatre. With then some graves and the lookout etc
it was a lovely way to spend a day that ended with a barbecue at the caravan
park. Tuesday 12th May it is off to Cue which although only the next
town away it is a closer base to use when driving out to Walga Rock which is
the largest gallery of aboriginal art in the Murchison and hence a must see. On
arrival in Cue we set up as per usual but unfortunately there was a stiff 
breeze which caught Mary off guard by slamming
the 
caravan door open so hard that it smashed the
door clip which is there to hold the door open in a clipped position when
wanted. Two hours later this was repaired so it was off to town for a look. The
town of Cue is a historical must with the shire opening its offices to the
public with their extensive collection of photographs on display 
and many other sites on a walking tour being
also worthwhile. Wednesday we leave to see the sights 
around Cue. First it is off to Walga Rock that
is said to be the second largest monolith in Australia along with also sporting
the artwork depicting a Dutch Ship that was supposed to be shipwrecked between
Geraldton & Kalbarri. It is suggested that a surviving sailor joined with
an aboriginal tribe and did this. The original aboriginal art is wonderful and
it is not difficult to walk to the top of the rock in several locations so we
did. From there we went to Big Bell which is a town built around an enormous
gold mine that was operational from 1936 to 1955. The building photographed is
the remains of what was a magnificent art deco hotel that serviced the town.
For interest sake we saw today 20-30 wild goats, 2 emus, 3 wedge tailed eagles,
crows, sheep and various other unknowns. Thursday sees us heading off to
Kumarina roadhouse via Meekatharra. It is an interesting drive and on the way
at the bridge over the Gascoyne River just 70km from Kumarina there was a great
camping spot that we should have considered more seriously – Next time! Today
we saw lots of eagles, goats, cows, and all of them both dead and alive. Friday
we left for Karijini via Newman
Newman, Karijini & Port Hedland
The drive
to Newman was pleasant with not much traffic and on our arrival we were
surprised by what appears to be a very pleasant town to live in. Prices of
groceries were much the same as Perth so we took the opportunity to stock up
then enjoyed a coffee, pie and chips (with gravy) in the shopping center coffee
shop. If we hadn’t planned to arrive in Karijini on the day we would have spent
a day here. Proceeding towards Karijini we came across a freebie road stop at
Mount Robinson provided by main roads which would be well worth a stay over as
it is in far enough from the road to give privacy and there is a bush toilet
there with plenty of good walking around it. We had a break here then moved on 
to arrive at Karijini in the afternoon. Our
site was in Kangaroo Loop with our camp Dingo’s patrolling on a constant basis.
Shoes on roof if not on feet as they tend to get eaten if left around. After
using half a newspaper to meticulously clean the 
barbecue I noticed that there were no rubbish
bins and Mary informed me that we were having to take all our rubbish with us –
That smelled great in our car as the dingo’s would take anything left around.
On Saturday morning we departed for Kalamina Gorge (known as the garden 
gorge) with the intention of walking its length.
This takes around 3 hours return and is well worthwhile. On the way we came
across the “Caustic Tree” (pictured) the sap of which is said to bring the skin
of good men and bad women to blister (we both chose not to risk trying it). The
second photograph shows some of the gorge and I am using the backpack that
Hayley won as a child and gave to me as a gift – It is great for hiking. When
we arrived back at the falls and pool we both climbed up the falls to the top
then down again. All treacherous stuff but it was walking back along the pool
ledge that I managed to slip and fall – “OUCH!” From here we went to Joffre
Falls, which is the highest waterfall in the park. After viewing it from the
platform we 
set off on the walk that takes you around to
the far side and then down to the bottom. After getting halfway down we were
waving to some tourists on the other side then decided to return. Three of them
were Bec, Dane & 
3 year old Priya (complete strangers) who took
some photos of us from the lookout and left a note on our car offering them to
us. We accepted their offer and below is one of the photos, which gives an idea
of the size of the falls etc. Thanks Guys! Of course Mary wanted to head down
the cliff but I decided that for me it would be much wiser to stop whilst I
could still make it back. That night our radio sparked into life for enough
time for us to hear the Eagles lose to the Swans by almost nothing then the
good news – “NO” WON – Yay! Day two saw us taking it easy so we took the walk
along the top of Dales Gorge and it was on this walk that we came across a
Black Head Python which Mary gave a poke to move him into the sun for a better
photo. Our stay in Karijini has been much more pleasant this time with maximum
temperatures in the low 20’s.
The trip
from Karijini to Port Hedland is one of the most spectacular drives of all that
we will do on this trip when passing through the very rugged terrain. We
arrived in the late afternoon and booked a two night stay at our usual caravan
park at Cooke Point. Unfortunately on awaking on Tuesday morning my side was so
sore that Mary insisted on taking me to the local hospital for checking out
before we would proceed to Eighty Mile Beach. This used the entire day but I
was well checked out by a great group of very professional medical staff. This
done we then decided to spend an extra day in Port Hedland so we could have a
good look around. It was worth it and in fact the town has done a lot of work
on providing facilities for its and the general tourist population. Thursday
morning we are off to Eighty Mile Beach.
Eighty
Mile Beach.
The drive
from Port Hedland to Eighty Mile Beach is only around 200km but is then
followed by 10km of corrugated road that gives the caravan a 
real belting. On arrival at the caravan park
Mary spent around an hour vacuuming everything and reassembling the stove. The
only other damage we sustained was in that I had to readjust the shower door
that had dropped. This turned out to be a little more serious in that 3 of the
4 door hinges had in fact failed. There was an email facility at the caravan
park so within just 6 minutes I had managed to send the Adria Australian
distributor an email requesting some spare parts be posted to us in Broome. On
the way out we shall insert a towel in the stove top and support the shower
door, which will hopefully leave us with only having to vacuum when we get to
Broome. Eighty Mile Beach is a little bit of heaven on a stick with nothing to
complain about. An oasis in the middle of nowhere.
Shortly
after finishing cleaning we were surprised when our240 volt power went out. On
re-setting the circuit breakers we were horrified to find that the cause was
us, so the search for the problem began. The power enters our caravan from the
front right then travels through to the middle left hand side before looping
back to pick up all of the power points, the refrigerator and hot water system.
For the first hour I was checking in the wrong direction before realising there
was a returning loop so it was not until a couple of hours later that the
electric heater element was identified as the culprit. An email was sent to the
Adria Australian Distributor from the caravan park facility requesting a
replacement unit be forwarded to Broome for us. Luckily our hot water system is
also gas operated so we were able to switch over to that until we moved on.
Friday morning at 6AM saw Mary off on a long walk collecting shells whilst I
decided to act dead for a day which is 
a great way to recover from my Karijini
experience. When Mary returned from her walk there was the cleaning of the
shells then the preparation to head off to catch our dinner. Friday evening
found me barbecuing the sausages surrounded by people eating fish. 
Saturday bought yet another day of Mary
collecting shells along with most of the other women in the caravan park. This
early morning activity is once again followed by hours of washing the finds
then packaging them etc. Saturday afternoon found me joining Mary for a two
hour walk and yes Mary bought back some more shells. That evening Mary was
invited to go fishing with some real fishermen at 6:30AM on Sunday morning. I
waved her goodbye then went back to sleep. On 
rising I went to the camp Sunday Market where I
was able to buy some more fishing tackle to replace what I thought would have
been lost in the 
mornings fishing by Mary. Surprise – She
returned with her limit of Blue Nosed Salmon which were filleted for her by
this amazing man “Ray” who spends his entire after fishing day, filleting other
people’s fish in return for a donation to the Royal Flying Doctor Service. He
has raised over $2,700.00 for them to date (as at when we enquired of him). Ray
is also raising money for his Vietnam Veterans monument that he 
is constructing in the caravan park with the
owners permission and blessing. Currently he is trying to raise enough money to
purchase the 600mm pickets that he needs to build a proper surround for it. In
the evening we over celebrated her catch and ended up eating a cheese board for
dinner instead of our planned fish feast. Monday saw us sleeping late before
heading back down to the beach to do some fishing at 10:00AM when the tide is
in. Once again Mary caught another fish and just for the record I am now quite
recovered so am enjoying sitting and watching her do it. Every day here several
people catch “big whites” which are large salmon and Mullaway each of around
10kg in weight. Tuesday saw us after saying goodbye to many new friends move on
to Broome after negotiating the 10km of corrugated road out of the caravan
park. This time we taped our shower door in place and supported it underneath
whilst traveling at only 30kmh. This was successful and we had no further
damage.
Broome.
On arriving
in Broome we set up, went shopping and then made a series of “we’re back in
communications” phone calls. On Wednesday morning 
we went to the post office to pick up our mail
then, as the Adria Australian Distributor had been unable to help with any of
the parts we needed we spent the rest of the morning trying to organize them.
Eventually we arrived at the premises of S&N Cabinets and Shop Fittings
where we met Paul Davies who organized to get some replacement hinges sent over
by air from the eastern states distributor. In the afternoon we received a
phone call from Lynne Quartermaine informing us that they would be flying up to
join us for the long weekend so preparations immediately began. Thursday saw us
back in Broome where Mary found her “Mother of the Bride dress” at Betty’s
Frock Shop. After that it was off for lunch at the Broome Port where they have
half price oysters after 2PM. The evening brings the usual sunset at Cable
beach. Friday is a lazy 
day! We received a phone call from Paul telling
us our hinges were in so went to pick them up. It took about an 
hour to change them over and repair the small
amount of damage to the surrounding timber – All 4 original hinges were
unserviceable. In the evening we went to the airport to pick up Graham &
Lynne. It was amusing to see the airport arrival screen announce their flight
had landed on schedule some 10 minutes before the plane had actually touched
down. Once having collected them we all went immediately to Noodlefish (a Thai
restaurant recommended by the locals) for a great meal. On dropping them to
their accommodation and after a nightcap we said our goodbyes until the morrow.
Back at our park I had a late shower and on returning from it to open the front
cover door on the caravan had the entire handle with a lock disassembling
itself in mid air surprise me just to make my day. I managed to find most of
the parts but not all. Saturday morning we both went to breakfast at Graham
& Lynne’s unit and after that proceeded into town with first dropping the
girls off so they could do a little shopping. Graham and I then went to
Kimberley Locksmiths where the gentleman there showed me how to reassemble the
lock and managed to find us some parts to replace the ones I couldn’t find. In
typical Broome style he refused any payment, as it was “no trouble”! We then
went shopping and after stocking Grahams, unit 
refrigerator proceeded back to town to get the
girls. Oh dear, Lynne was sporting a new piece of pearl jewelry. Next it was
off to Matso's brewery for a ginger beer, raspberry beer or a mango beer. Yum!
From there it was the mandatory trip to see the dinosaur footprints,
Anastasia’s pool etc at the lighthouse. Dinner was a Moroccan Lamb barbecue.
Sunday was breakfast together followed by a trip into town to the courthouse
markets. At the markets we met Miguel Castillon (Bush Name: Wurrupa – The Sea)
of the Jouwyn clan who was selling his own art at very reasonable prices. We
purchased two pieces one of which is being held by Mr Castillon in the
photograph at left. He was very informative about aboriginal art and our
extended conversation with him was most enjoyable. From there it was off to
town for a further look around before heading off to the Wharf Restaurant for
another feed of the half price oysters on offer there. Of course they had to
accommodate Graham with a steak that they said they chose especially for him
from the supermarket. From there it was back to our respective lodgings for a
rest prior to heading down to Cable Beach to witness another sunset. Champagne
and Morris came with us to join a selection of cheeses etc to make the evening
complete. Monday was an early breakfast before leaving for the Willie Creek
Pearl (drive yourself) tour. The Willie Beach tour location was easy to drive
to even though they discourage anyone from doing so when booking your tickets. 
It is a 30 minute trip from Broome and by
driving ourselves we saved $35.00 each (total saving $140.00 on our lot) which
frankly, if we had paid the extra would have left us feeling ripped off. The
tour begins with a well presented and very informative display lecture but the
highlight of the boat trip, which is up and down a small inlet in a large
tlnny, was a gentleman in a small tinny (a small aluminium boat) catching a
fish. We all agreed we were glad we went though it is probably overpriced at
$45.00 each ($80.00 if they bus you there). The rest of the day was spent
checking out the Mango winery, the Japanese cemetery, etc, before having a
goodbye dinner and finally dropping Graham & Lynne at the airport for their
flight home. Tuesday is a day of accounts preparation, washing and all of those
tasks that have been put off whilst 
we have been busy entertaining our friends. In
the evening, after 
walking down to Cable Beach for yet another
sunset we had a few drinks with our neighbours, 83 year old Brian and his
junior partner Rona. Brian, a pilot, very much reminded me of an older David P
and Rona is an accomplished artist who paints amongst other things some
fantastic works on Rainbow stone (around 360 million years old) and Ribbon
stones (around 650 million years old). Brian has owned his caravan for 30 years
and we were surprised at how well it was laid out. Wednesday saw us do much of
nothing in preparation to depart for Fitzroy Crossing on Thursday. Oh yes
except that Mary purchased herself another pearl from her favourite jewelry
store “Broome Staircase Designs”.
Fitzroy Crossing, Halls Creek,
Kununurra and off to N.T.
Friday in Fitzroy Crossing is a most enjoyable
relaxed day where we visited the Information center and were able to purchase
some Kimberley art at sensible prices. Once again the original Fitzroy
Crossing, crossing is open to the public so we re-drove that. The whole town is
so much nicer than we remembered apparently due to the new liquor laws. From
there it is off to Halls Creek for lunch before proceeding on to Kununurra. We
were determined to stop at the Halls Creek butcher with the ridiculous
advertisement they run (pictured). In the evening at Kununurra we barbecued our
purchase that turned out to be tender, tasty and was actually quite good.
Sunday morning brought with it the opportunity to wash the car and caravan for
the first time since we left home as there is unlimited water in and around
town. The caravan park encourages it as it waters the lawns for them. Monday is
an opportunity to revisit the local art galleries and to look for Pauline’s
childhood home. Tuesday we are off to Timber Creek in the Northern Territory. NORTHERN TERRITORY LINK
Last
revised: Date Monday, June 08, 2009