Our
Travels Across and Destinations in Tasmania
Table of Contents
The "Spirit of Tasmania", down to
Launceston, Beaconsfield, Greens Beach, George Town & Ben Lomond.
Scottsdale, Weldborough Pass,
St Helens, Binalong Bay, The Gardens & St Marys.
Coles Bay, Freycinet National Park,
Richmond, Seven Mile Beach & Port Arthur.
Hobart, Bruny Island, Mount Wellington,
Kangaroo Bluff Fort & the Cadbury Factory
Strahan, Zeehan, Burnie, Wynyard, Stanley,
Penguin, Don River Railway & Devonport.
The “Spirit of Tasmania” then down
to Launceston, Beaconsfield, Greens Beach, George Town & Ben Lomond.
Having driven to the ship we were
stopped and told that we would have to dispose of the contents of our 10-litre
fuel can (which is an approved container). The wharf workers showed us where to
dispose of it (where you clamber over a water tank to eventually waste it into a
drum that is receiving everything from diesel to ULP) to waste. I offered it as
a freebie to the worker who stopped me and was told that they could not take
advantage of the offer. Not being able to stand the waste I asked another
worker in the background who was pleased to help me avoid the waste but there
was a steady stream of people emptying their spare fuel to waste. Once on the
ship, which was loaded very efficiently, 
we proceeded to our cabin, which was
a pleasant two person porthole cabin as booked. Our return cost for the
Tasmania voyage was $1400.00 including everything. At 6:40AM we awake to a
public address announcement to be told 
it is time to go at 7:40AM. Again
with great efficiency we are all off loaded in a regimented and well-practiced routine.
Quarantine is waiting for us all and they very quickly and efficiently checked
us all to be sure that we had NO vegetables, fruit & seeds (we gave all of
ours to a camping family back in Melbourne before departing for Tasmania). From
there it is a quick and very scenic drive of around 98km down to Launceston
where we were all checked into a caravan park shortly after 10:00AM Tasmanian
daylight saving time. Once set up we drove into Launceston to replace our fruit
& veg as we all know you need 5 serves of them every day even though there
is a counter proposition that they might be very bad for some of us (me). There
is a park “Prince’s Park” in Launceston that stopped us in our tracks whilst in
town – photographed with Mary. After returning to restock the refrigerator we
still had most of the day left so we proceeded to “Cataract Gorge” which is
about 2km from the city center and is a beautifully developed reserve with lots
of walks and a string ride (Hayley’s words for a chairlift) that boasts that the
308 metre central span is the longest single span in the world. Mary enjoyed
that ride! Friday 
the 12th of October and
we were up early to make the Boag’s Brewery tour at 9:00AM. It is probably not
value at $18.00 per 
person to take a 15-25 minute walk
through a factory followed by a tasting of four of their beers. In fact we
could have seen a lot of what we saw from the street (peering in the openings)
and in the museum for free so in retrospect I would not have done the tour if I
had known what it was before we did it. Did you know that “Boag’s” is owned by
“San Miguell”. After the tour we decided to follow the advertised “North East
Trail up one side and back along the other side of the Tamar River. The route
is as usual very scenic with several lookout stops along the way. We made a
stop at Beaconsfield which is where the mine had the trapped workers last year
– It is looking somewhat modernised now and is again in full production. From
there it was off through Beauty Point and up to Greens Beach where the Tamar
River meets the ocean. From there after the mandatory walk across the beach we
proceeded back to the “Batman” bridge then up to George Town on the other side
of the river. It was now time for a late lunch, which gives an idea of the
small distances that have to be covered in Tasmania to get to another
attraction. On the way back we stopped at a berry farm where we were able to
sample their fruit wines and vinegars. Very nice – Purchased some! Next it was
back to Launceston where we drove through some of the nicer areas before
calling it a day. On Saturday we took a trip to Ben Lomond, which is a national
park and ski 
resort. When we arrived at the last
part of 
the track up to the ski village my
vertigo kicked in so Mary did 
this part whilst I bravely waited at
the bottom to get that photograph where it doesn’t look as bad as it really is.
They have free camping up on the mountain (on the way up – not at the village)
for anyone wanting to brave the cold that we measured at 4°C at the sites.
On the way back we took a different track and enjoyed seeing a wild deer cross
the road in front of us before driving through “Perth” to eventually travel
back to Launceston. Sunday Mary was
unwell so while she slept it off (the cold) I took the opportunity to wash the
car and caravan, which is something of a luxury after the previous states where
water restrictions make life somewhat difficult.
Scottsdale, Weldborough Pass, St
Helens, Binalong Bay & The Gardens
Monday Mary and I decided to leave
Launceston for Scottsdale via Lilydale (A local suggested that this route would
avoid some winding uppy downy roads). The trip is only around 70km but as
driving is on quite thin highways shared with lots of logging trucks I can be a
lot more work than the roads we are used to. Scottsdale provides a free camping
area that challenges many commercial offerings with its only shortfall being no
hot water in the showers that matters not to us as we carry our own. It is an
extremely picturesque spot and we enjoyed the walks that emanated from the
area. Once set up we left our caravan to drive to Bridport for a look around.
Lunch in a small Bridport café was enjoyed before we returned to the Scottsdale
Township for a look around and of course the mandatory bargain shopping.
Tuesday brings another fine but crisp day so after breakfast cooked on the free
barbecues (we did leave donations for the Lions etc) we set off for St Helens
on 
the Tasmanian east coast. It is a
hard work drive but on the way we were treated to one of the nicest “rainforest
walks” that you could hope to 
enjoy. It was a surprise as we
climbed the highway after passing through Weldborough and it is known as the
“Weldborough Pass Scenic Reserve Forrest Walk”. The walk 
only takes around 10 minutes and then we continued on our journey. Our
next deviation was the “Pyengana Cheese Factory” which was about 1km off the
highway and although I didn’t find the cheeses any better than that which we
normally purchase from a supermarket, Mary did so we have some! Not long later
we set ourselves up in “St Helens Caravan Park” (very nice Big 4 – we have
arrived at the point where all we care about is the facilities and theirs are
great if not the best we have ever experienced).
A drive to Binalong Bay was in order and we were not disappointed by this 
beach which had white as white
squeaky sand where Mary could not help but need to feel it between her toes
(are women what keeps us sane?). From there we proceeded to “the Gardens” where
we expected to find an extraordinary garden at a fine establishment where we
could enjoy an 
exquisite meal (as it was described
as a must see by the man at the information center) but the photographs at
right best show our reward for taking the advice. Wednesday and as Mary wanted
to see St. Marys which is a deviation from our caravan route we decided to
drive there before taking some walks back at St. Helens. The only interesting
thing on this trip was on the road up to St. Marys (the last 6 kilometres)
where the safety fence made a unique singing noise as the car drove past it. On
our return we drove out to St Helens Point where we enjoyed an easy 1-hour walk
from Burns Bay to Beerbarrel Beach and return. From here we took several side
trips to small well-signed beaches etc. before driving back to purchase some
local seafood. Mary cooked up some “Oysters Kilpatrick” with the St Helens
Oysters followed by St Helens Scallops in a ginger honey sauce to be washed
down with some Wyanga Chardonnay. It has to be added that as Mary had no
Worcestshire sauce she made her own substitute that will have to be introduced
into her dinner party menus, as it was the best I have ever enjoyed – “Oysters
Mary Kilpatrick”.
Coles Bay, Freycinet National Park,
Richmond, Seven Mile Beach & Port Arthur.
Thursday and we departed for and
with Bicheno in mind but on driving through it decided to proceed on to Coles
Bay. From Coles Bay, which 
is a small seaside village we were
able to head straight into Freycinet National Park. First we drove to Cape
Tourville where there is a lighthouse and a spectacular boardwalk running
around the cliff face in front of it. From there we proceeded to the walking
track car park and set off to see the Wineglass Bay lookout which is a 3km – 1
hour return walk straight up the side of a mountain. Once there we decided to
walk down to Wineglass Bay Beach, which is an extra 
1½ hours on the walk. Once at
Wineglass Beach we decided to bite the bullet and take the full Isthmus Track
Circuit that was probably not too smart as it was already 3:45PM and we would
not get back to the car park before 6:30PM. The photograph at right is taken on
Hazard beach about half way through the walk where we had the whole beach to
ourselves. The walk turned out to be a most enjoyable 9½Km trek with only a couple of rocks
to climb on the way. On our return to the caravan Mary cooked up some “Coles
Bay Oysters” as “Oysters Mary Kilpatrick” – Make hay while the sun shines “A” –
These fat little fresh suckers are costing us $12.00 a dozen!
Friday brings with it some very high
winds but we decided to travel on to Triabunna anyway. On arrival there we are
advised that our best destination will probably be Richmond or Seven Mile
Island so after lunch we headed to Seven Mile Island and set up base in the
caravan park there. Off to Richmond we went – Richmond is an old village style
town with many claims to fame including having “Australia’s oldest bridge
(built in 1823)”, “Australia’s oldest gaol” etc. In fact the place has a lot of
“old buildings” but they certainly know how to charge new prices on the arts,
crafts and local produce they sell there. It was good to look around the old
churches as well and the visit of around 2 hours was worthwhile. Saturday &
Sunday are Indycarnival days so I elected to stay at the caravan to watch the
event on both days. Saturday evening I heard from WG (it’s the 20th).
Mary of course took the opportunity to visit the Salamanca Markets in Hobart. 
Sunday is more Indycarnival and we
both stayed home for this. Monday and we went to the Port Arthur Region. We
made several stops starting with the “Tessellated Pavement” which I 
thought was pavement done by
convicts but, no, it is actually a natural blocky rock formation. Next it was
the “Tasman Blowhole”, then the “Tasman Arch” and after that the “Devils
Kitchen” all of which are natural phenomenon’s along the coast that are not
even remotely described by their names but worth the look. After some 80km we
arrived at Port Arthur where if you want to enter the historic site you need to
pay a $25.00 admission fee. The site could be viewed from the car park and it
was a lot of old buildings. I decided to keep my $25.00 (and in fairness they
did include a short river cruise and a guided tour – neither of which I wanted
and there is no option to forgo those parts of the admission) and Mary decided
that if I wasn’t going she would rather go to lunch with me so we both left
with me a little disgusted.
Hobart, Bruny Island, Mount
Wellington, Kangaroo Bluff Fort & the Cadbury Factory.
Tuesday we decided to get up early
so we could leave at 8:00AM in order to get to “Kettering” in time to take the 9:30
ferry to “Bruny Island”. We allowed this much time, as we knew we would have to
go through “Hobart” in the peak hour traffic to get there. We were waiting for
the ferry with 30 minutes to spare. The ferry trip was easy and quick, with
our, upon arriving on the Island, heading straight 
down to the “South Bruny National
Park” via “Alonnah” where we stopped to look at the museum in behind the Post
Office. Once at the National Park we first looked at the decommissioned
lighthouse and then headed down to Jetty beach to 
do the “Luggaboine Walk”. During the
walk Mary stopped to take a swim at an unnamed bay. I think we will call it
Mary Bay in honour of Maz who thinks that swimming at 16°C is 
a pleasure. After completing the 1½ hour walk we
headed towards Adventure Bay” via “Mount Mangana” Forrest Reserve (all very
nice) on gravel roads that are so well maintained as to be a pleasure to drive.
We then headed back to the ferry where we managed to catch the 4:30PM trip. It
was decided to take a different route back to “Seven Mile Beach” so we first
headed south then across and north up through “Cygnet”, “Huonville” with then
next proceeding via “Fern Tree”. Surprise, surprise, Mount Wellington is not
far out of our way (11km) so up we go there next. The temperature dropped to 6°C with a wind
chill that made it feel like it was below 0°C but the views are spectacular and
we very much enjoyed the protected viewing platforms provided. It is now quite
late so we headed home where we finally arrived at 8:15PM – Time to enjoy a
glass of wine! Wednesday we drove into Hobart for a lazy day where we stopped
on the wharf for lunch, then went for a walk around the area and lastly went
shopping in a nearby suburb before heading back to the caravan park for a BBQ.
Thursday and it was back into Hobart for a good look around the central mall
area etc. After lunch it was off to the “Wrest Point Casino” where Mary, after
buying me a glass of fine Tasmanian wine took off to have a flutter where she
doubled her dollar into two dollars. Next it 
was off to the “Royal Tasmanian 
Botanical Gardens” which took up the
rest of our daylight hours and could have used more time, as it is a superb
botanical garden. Friday is a day of local exploring where most of the day was
spent driving around the north of Hobart areas including Rosny and Bellerive,
then further up the coast line. Between those two suburbs we came across
“Kangaroo Bluff Fort” which is an amazing full on gun fortification (battery)
built in the mid 1880’s. Two of the original cannons have been recovered and
mounted on concrete mounts (the original mountings were wooden and moveable on
rails). There is a sign advising people to stay off the cannons just below the
barrel at the front but I guess Mary missed it. Saturday is “Salamanca
Market” day again so we are up early
and off to Hobart. I also went this time as we had managed to book a 1½ hour harbour
cruise on the “Lady Nelson” replica for just $15.00 each. We both enjoyed the
cruise even though there was very little wind. Sunday we moved our caravan to a
caravan park on the other side of Hobart near to the 
Cadbury factory so we could do the
Cadbury tour before leaving for Mount Field National Park on Monday morning.
Once settled we took a small local drive then prepared to visit with the Harry
& Jenny Hindle who we knew from Darlington and who are now living in
Hobart. They organised a table at a Hobart restaurant where we all enjoyed a
fine seafood meal. After dinner we then went back to their home for port &
coffee and WOW what a view they have from their home. There we met Alex again
(Alex went to school with Hayley in her primary years) and after getting a
photograph in their lounge we finally left them alone at around 01:00AM on
Monday. The alarm woke us at 7:15AM so we could make the Cadbury Tour which is
great value and after the tour ends we were let loose in a special shop where
we could buy bulk lots of their product. From the tour we had to rush back to
hook up the caravan in order to leave before having to pay for an extra day at
the caravan park.
Mount Field National Park,
Strathgordon, Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair Nat.Pk, Franklin–Gordon N/Pk. &
Queenstown
We arrived at just after 1:30PM at
the “Mount Field” national park and quickly set up in the camping area (this
one is quite pricey at $25.00 per night which is about the same as we were
paying for caravan parks in Hobart). As usual Mary was keen to do a walk. This
park has plenty of shorter walks but Mary chose the “Russell Falls” to
“Horseshoe Falls” to “Tall Trees” to “Lady Barron Falls” which took us about 3
hours. It is all very pretty (like most of Tasmania) and was enjoyed by both of
us but by the time we finished it we were well ready to rest. Whoops – No –
David & Merrilyn have arrived at the park camping area too, so it is
drink-a-clock. Tuesday and David drove us all to “Strathgordon” where there is
almost nothing and then on to the “Gordon Dam”. The dam was worth a look but
the highlight of the trip was “Creepy Crawly Nature Walk” which was a short
side trip on the way there. On arrival back at Mount Field national park Mary
& I drove up to the Ski area on Mount Mawson. From the car park we walked
for about an hour in dense natural gardens (different from rainforest due to
the cold) to find the ski club area. There was still some snow on the mountain
but very little so the highlight of that walk was probably the light snowfall
that we had for 30 or so seconds during the walk. The next morning we decided
to make the day a lazy one. We did take a walk but it was only to the local pub
that is just outside the national park entrance and then it was only for lunch.
Thursday we left for Derwent Bridge. On the way we stopped at “Tarraleah” which
was a very worthwhile 5-minute diversion to see the hydroelectric plant 
from the top of the falls. On
arrival at “Derwent Bridge” which consists of a pub (neither of us saw any
bridge there) we turned off so we could visit the “Cradle Mountain – Lake St
Clair national Park” which is next to the town (pub). The national park offered
caravan sites for $25.00 that included two tokens for the showers (a token was
good for 6 minutes). It would appear that all of the national parks here have
leased the camping facilities to private operators that think they can charge
full caravan park rates for very basic camping sites. This one didn’t even have
water available for the caravans but then they did have lots of firewood?! Once
again we did enjoy the walks provided in the park – we did the – “Watersmeet
Walk”, “Platypus Bay Track”, “Aboriginal Cultural Walk” and the “Cynthia Bay Walk”. On arriving back
at the visitor center we purchased a bottle of Tasmanian “Breem Creek” wine and
proceeded to demolish it whilst gazing out of the building at the mountainous
vista. Whoops on finishing that we walked back to our caravan at the camp
ground and built a fire for all to sit around. Whoops Friday we were all a
little worse for wear but it didn’t matter for we were not going to pay for another
night here so we pushed on to Queenstown. On the way we stopped at “Nelson
Falls Walk” in the “Franklin–Gordon National Park” which was a most worthwhile
diversion for around twenty minutes. Onward we drove on what was a torturous
twisting uppy downy inny outy road that seemed to never end until suddenly we
were facing huge piles of left over mining rubble. The road now became even
worse as we climbed one more mountain before descending it on the other side as
we drove down into Queenstown. Yep we can keep going after taking a very quick
look here so it is off to Strahan.
Strahan, Zeehan, Burnie, Wynyard, Stanley, Penguin, Don River Railway
& Devonport
We arrived in Strahan after a
further torturous drive and were pleased to find a site in a real caravan park
(the FPA park) with showers that were ensuite type individual amenities that
were all ours until we finished in them (like a shared ensuite?). Once settled
we took the mandatory drive around the town then ordered some fish & chips
so we could take them to consume whilst watching the sunset at “Ocean Beach”.
Saturday morning bought with it yet another fine day that meant we could, after
driving to the local lookout and checking out the “Huon Pine Workshop” on the
way to that, take the local “Great Short Walk” to “Hogarth Falls” in the
“Peoples Park”. After the walk that was as usual pretty and quite different to
the last walk we 
had taken we drove to the end of the
road where the “West Coast Wilderness Railway” runs their train from. As we
have walked so much rainforest throughout Tasmania we decided that we didn’t
need to spend the $200.00 plus (including the bus ride back from Queenstown
where the train ride ends) for a ride on an old train through much of the same
as we had already seen. Next we drove back into town to visit “Banjo’s” which
Merrilyn had told us was a must do if we ever saw one for coffee on the
foreshore. Surprise we walked in to be confronted by Dawn Bines who has been
traveling for 9 years in a van (she stops to work when the urge hits her) and
who was our tour guide back at Cape Naturalist lighthouse in Western Australia
in 2006. Dawn visited us that night for wine and cheese and to exchange stories
of travels. Sunday in Strahan that we are very much enjoying is a casual walk
into town for breakfast at a café followed by an extended walk around the
foreshore where Mary found lots of treasures. On our return to the caravan
several hours later we planned our route for Monday before heading off to try
to get a photograph of one of the Platypus that live in the caravan park creek.
No luck with that! Monday morning we departed for Wynyard which we had decided
would be the base for our north west travels. We traveled via “Zeehan” which
was to be our morning tea stop but upon our arrival it was we decided a “keep
going” and then through “Roseberry” which was to be our lunch stop but turned
out to be a quick coffee stop. We eventually came in through Burnie to Wynyard
where we were delighted to find the quaint 
“Beach Retreat Tourist Park” right
on the beach (we walk off their grass onto the beach then around the corner to
the left to proceed towards town along the river). Tuesday it was decided that
we would go to “Stanley” (very nice and cute see 
photograph at left) which then
turned into going to the “Dismal Swamp” where Mary went down into the swamp
whilst I waited for her to re-emerge. Next we went down to “Marrawah” (nothing
there) and finally we drove to “Arthur River”. This last stop saved the day as
it was quite spectacular to see all of the tree trunks thrown up on the shore
at “The edge 
of the earth” as the place is
described. On the way back we stopped at the lighthouse at Wynyard where the
colours at left of the photograph are from the tulip crop grown there.
Wednesday was a cloudy day so we went into Burnie for a general look around. It
is a well set out friendly city which we enjoyed and we even found some
bargains to purchase. After lunch we went to the “Lactose Cheese Centre” where
we tasted some very nice cheeses and were then tempted into buying 3 or so Kg
of cheese. Next it was off to the Whiskey Factory but the whiskey was $55.00
for a 700ml bottle so we left there without even bothering to taste the
whiskey. From there we rushed back into Burnie to the information center where
they suggested we should go out to “Fernglade” to see the Platypus – Ye success
and there was even a nice little walk to do there – and then to the “Little
Penguin Observation Centre” where we were treated to a free guide to help us
with our successful viewing. It was now 9:30PM so homeward we went. In the
morning we went back into Burnie where at the information center they issued us
with a 2 hour (a very generous 2 hours) parking pass before we went into their
museum on a two for one offer. Our princely sum of $6.00 bought us a surprising
hours entertainment in the museum, which was about “Burnie” and its past
lifestyles. Next we walked into town for a little extra shopping before heading
back to “Wynyard”. The “Wynyard” information center was also on the ball
pointing us in the direction of several local entertainments. We walked around
town and then back to the caravan park where we were having dinner prepared by
Merrilyn at David & Merrilyns caravan – Roast Beef – Yum. Friday we woke up
quite late (David woke us by banging on our window to say goodbye – They were
going to a national park and we will see them on the ferry as we are leaving
“Wynyard” for “Devonport” in a days time). We decided it would be a lazy day so
we went on a walk to “Fossil Bluff” from the caravan park (about 7-8Km)
followed by a short fishing stint from the rocks in front of the caravan park
(life doesn’t get much tougher) where we caught our usual quota. Dinner was at
the “Wharf Hotel” which was recommended by everyone from the park management to
the information center. Saturday morning and we moved to “Devonport” which was
to be our last stop before 
leaving Tasmania to return to
Victoria. On arrival in “Devonport” we set up at the FPA caravan park (not
recommended) that has offered us a late checkout which effectively gives us an
extra day in the area. It was then time to drive to “Sheffield” known as “the
town of murals” as it has many 
of them and some are very good. From
there it is off to another chocolate factory and finally back to 
Devonport to the information center
there. Sunday is “Penguin” market day with what is advertised as the up market,
market – Yep it was OK even for a guy with many very well priced bargains –
Mary found a toilet she wanted to buy but alas it was too heavy for the
caravan. It is in fact the best, most diverse, interesting and complete market
we have visited in Tasmania and Australia so far. Following that we availed
ourselves of a ride on the “Don River Railway” Steam train ride that runs a
return ride hourly from “Don River”. Great fun and excellent value at $10.00
per person with them also providing access to their train museum. The staff
there were amazingly generous with their time as they took us through the
working workshops as a post trip tour. It was also nice to be able to meander
around without all those barriers and no no signs that we 
are used to at any place where
anything actually happens. We were a week early for the “Thomas” train but we
were allowed to photograph the train without its face. In the evening we can
watch the “Spirit of Tasmania” as it sails from “Devonport” at 8:00PM and it is
still light because it is only pretend 8:00PM (actually it is 7:00PM). Monday
the 12th of November and we sailed back to Victoria on her after a
days shopping and walking around the city. Of course we did not eat any food on
the return trip as I had no desire to repeat the food poisoning that I suffered
on the trip over from Melbourne.
You
will need to go back to Victoria to follow the trip from here.
Last
revised: Date Friday, June 26, 2009