
Table of Contents
Perth across the
Nullabor to Geelong then onto the "Spirit of Tasmania" bound for
Devonport.
Ferry Across to
Devonport, Tasmania then Stanley, Smithton & Burnie.
Waratah, Cradle
Mountain. Strahan, Sheffield and Mole Creek.
Deloraine,
Scottsdale, Bridport and Launceston.
Campbell Town, Ross,
Oatlands, Hobart & Port Arthur.
Triabunna, Maria
Island, Bicheno, Longford & the VW Tiguan.
Monday February 7th 2011
at 6:00 AM and we are not ready but by 7:30 we drove out of our driveway on
this our newest adventure. Being a little late we experienced some local
traffic but within 30 minutes or so we were clear of it and heading eastwards.
Through the Northam area, Merredin,
Southern Cross, Coolgardie then turning right towards Norseman before
eventually turning left to head east on the Eyre Highway. Finally after a total
days travel distance of some 760Km we stopped to spend our first night at a
free site “Fraser Range Rest Area” that is maintained by the Western Australian
Main Roads Department and is about 75km east of Norseman on the highway. It was
we thought quite strange as the weather was very much our friend with a top
temperature of around 26ºC on this leg of the trip when we had expected
more around the 40’s which in turn meant that it was very pleasant sleeping in
the caravan. The following day after placating several foreign tourists who
were most disappointed to be in what they were led to believe were deserts but
appeared to be cool well watered areas we were finally up and off again by
around 8:00AM. Once again it was a big day’s drive with a maximum temperature
of 19.5ºC and a misty rain falling for more than half the time. There was a sad
situation that came to light when we stopped at the Caiguna Roadhouse to refuel
where an elderly couple with a very old caravan had lost the door off it They
were asking all incoming travellers if they had seen it but as we had been in
relatively brisk headwinds all day we did not expect that they would be
successful unless they backtracked in a deliberate effort to find it. Off again
and we crossed the Western Australian/South Australian border at around 6PM WA
time or 8:30PM SAPT ( South Australian Pretendies Time) and within 25km had
settled on one of the many Great Australian Bight Tourist View camp sites that
are freely provided by the S.A. government. The views are exceptional and even
though the facilities comprise only of a rubbish bin and a stern warning of
what will happen
to
you if you don’t use them they are a delight to have the privilege to have the
use of. Wednesday saw us leave at 6:00AM but it was now actually 8:30Am SAPT,
destination Ceduna with our goal being to once again purchase some of Baldy’s
oysters. These are huge oysters of the highest quality and costing $12.00 per
dozen shucked. Baldy is a Ceduna character! He shucks the oysters whilst
feeding Mary one or two pieces then packages them with parsley and lemon ready
for anybody to enjoy. As usual we booked into Shelley Beach Caravan Park that
is situated just outside Ceduna on the beach in a secluded location. Mary
cooked them up as Oysters Kilpatrick and we feasted on them with a bottle of
Tasmanian Bubbles to wash them down. The next morning we woke a little later
than normal but headed for Clare (The Clare Valley) in South Australia. After
passing through Port Augusta we took Horrocks Pass cutting across to
Willmington to travel down Main North Road to Clare. The road is a small
highway that is well patched but as most people use the A1 Highway it is in
fact a pleasant drive with many small towns on the way. On arriving at Clare we
decided to stay two nights so that we could explore the area. It is full of art
galleries, wineries, museums, churches etc and is very much a quaint tourist
area that we very much enjoyed. From Clare it was off towards Geelong through
Gawler, Murray Bridge and a myriad of small towns before arriving at the South
Australian/Victorian border where as a joint venture a well-appointed camping
area has been provided for travellers. We were very surprised to find ourselves
as the only caravan staying the night with the exception of one on the back of
a truck that decided to stay over as well. What was a surprise was when the
truckies clambered into the Winnebago (The truck was carting a Winnebago and a
caravan) to spend the night in comfort. In the morning at around 8:30AM (the
truckies hadn’t risen yet) our trip was resumed but now there was a feeling
that we were in outer suburbs as there was lots of traffic and quite short gaps
between dollops of civilisation. It was not until we spotted the Grampians that
we felt any urge to stop. It was decided to stop at Stawell for a couple of
nights so we could explore them properly on the following day. A look around
Stawell in the afternoon revealed a scenic town with a working gold mine.
Monday morning– Happy Valentines All – it was a 24km trip to Halls Gap from
where our Grampians
adventure
began. On arrival at the information
centre
we were informed that the heavy rains of the previous week had caused over 100
landslides closing most of the roads in the national park. What was left open
meant that our first stop was at the Heatherlie Quarry with a walk that
encompassed accommodation buildings, machinery, and still has some quarried
rock that is available to use in the maintenance of buildings that were
constructed from its product last century. Onward we went to the Beehive
waterfall where after a 1.2km hike we arrived at what was only just a waterfall
but in all fairness the last part of the hike was a little challenging. Our
final hike was up Mount Stapylton and this was good. In total we had walked
around 7 kilometres. Tuesday it was off in the morning to Ballarat. Arriving
around noon we checked into the Big 4 Windmill Caravan Park which was just
lovely after the previous caravan parks we had become used to. It was then into
town where we did one of the walk yourself tours recommended by the local
information centre taking in many older buildings and including the art
gallery. The gallery was full of interesting and enjoyable paintings and
sculptures – It was quite an eye opener. The town of Ballarat obviously has or
had a lot of money in it with no end of beautifully decorated buildings in the
city and suburbs. Wednesday it is off to Geelong which is our base to prepare
to catch the “Spirit of Tasmania”. On arriving we set up before heading into
the city to shop ready for our overseas trip. Thursday we spent touring the
Geelong area looking at Barwon
Heads,
Ocean Grove, Queenscliffe, St
Leonards,
and Portarlington before eventually arriving back at Geelong City in the beach
precinct. The Australian saying “you’ve got Buckley’s” came from a Mr Buckley
who escaped from Sorrento prison and lived with the Australian aboriginals for
some 35 years in the Barwon Heads area (yes we saw a cave that he was said to
have inhabited) before handing himself back in to the authorities whereupon he
was given a government job with the constabulary. The Geelong City beach
precinct was beautifully laid out with Mary & I enjoying a long walk which
bought us to a helicopter flight that we both very much enjoyed. From there it
was back to our caravan – a barbecue with an effort to eat as many of our
vegetables as possible (before leaving for Tasmania in the knowledge that on
arriving at Tasmania they would be confiscated) and then instigating
preparations before heading for bed and an early night. Four thirty AM saw us
rise in readiness to hook up the caravan to leave Geelong by 5:30AM bound for
the Spirit of Tasmania. It turns out that this was not a good idea as the
traffic on the road from Geelong to the ferry was heavy even at 5:30AM and just
became worse as we approached the ferry.
We have now established to ourselves that there is just no nice way of catching this ferry.
Once on the “Spirit of Tasmania” we settled
into our “Deluxe Room”, something we had treated ourselves to when it was
offered at a discount at the time of booking our crossing. It came with a
bottle of Tasmanian Bubbles and other than leaving our room to purchase a
“National Parks Pass”, that is an essential for any caravaner visiting
Tasmania, we did not leave it again until we arrived at Devonport. Mary had
packed food for lunch, snacking and a light dinner so the whole experience was
very pleasant.
On arriving
at Devonport some 45 minutes late, at 6:45PM, and after clearing quarantine we
proceeded to the caravan park that we had pre-booked, checking ourselves in. We
had, as we had Telstra cover on the crossing, advised the park that we would be
late but in actual fact as most of their clientele comes from the ferry they
were well geared towards it. Devonport is a great albeit small town so a two
night stay at each end of our trip works well for us.
Sunday we
headed for Stanley where after setting up home we rang Bell Sport Aviation to
advise Lloyd (the owner) of our location and keen availability for some flying
lessons.
Waking on Monday morning to very
strong winds and heavy cloud cover we realised that flying was out of the
question. With this in mind it was decided to take a drive to look at the Rocky
Cape National Park then off over to Dip Falls & Big Tree Etc.
A phone
call from a Perth friend, advising us that he and his lady would be in Stanley
at 12:30PM meant an immediate change in plans as we looked forward to meeting
with them. Charlie and his lady arrived and we all after a quick reconnoiter of
the town went to the Stanley Hotel for a beer. They were on a bus tour so time
was short but the hour enjoyed with them was fun. It was then off on our
per-planned jaunt. At Rocky Cape Mary found a freshly painted, aboriginal style
painting, on a rock. The falls and big tree were well worth the visit in that
they were both in forests full of ferns, mosses and all those things that make
you feel that it is a fairyland setting.
9:30AM on Tuesday morning we
received a phone call from Lloyd Kay at Bell Sport Aviation advising that the
weather was good and that we should head to Smithton Airfield for some lessons.
The aircraft he uses is a Aeroprakt Foxbat A22. Both of us found it to be a
great platform for our continued experiences in aviation. It has completely
transparent doors and exceptional visibility much like that of a helicopter. A
very roomy aircraft after what we have been used to, both of us took to it
quite quickly. Mary had the first hour then it was my turn. I very much liked
the aircraft, it’s setup, engine etc.etc. After one lesson for Mary and two for
me we headed back to Stanley as the entire day had passed. Wednesday was more
of the same as we both lapped up the experience and reveled in Lloyd’s method
of instructing. Another 4 hours was logged between us and we looked forward to
hopefully hearing we could have more on Thursday. Yeah - Thursday bought with
it a further several hours of flying but it was decided to take a day off on
Friday.
As it
happened it was just as well as Mary was complaining of eyesight problems that
very quickly degenerated to having us both quite concerned for the sight in one
of her eyes. We were so concerned that Mary rang her GP in Perth and the clinic
advised that it would be wise to go to a hospital first thing in the morning.
On getting up in the morning Mary rang Burnie Hospital and they suggested that
she present at emergency as soon as possible. Just over an hour later we
arrived and within 30 minutes a doctor was examining the misbehaving eye. A
surgeon was called in and around an hour after first examination Mary had been
referred with an urgent appointment to the specialist that visits Burnie once a
month. The specialist examined Mary’s eye and after a thorough examination
immediately lasered the retinal tear that he confirmed had developed. We both
then whilst frankly in a little shock at the efficiency of the whole treatment,
at around midday, headed back to Stanley, stopping for lunch at Wynyard,
sightseeing at the Sisters etc., before finally visiting the Allendale Gardens
as a slight diversion from our route. Dinner was at one of Stanley’s fine
restaurants to celebrate our good fortune.
We are both still amazed at how quickly everything happened – Call us
lucky !!!
Saturday morning a phone call came
through informing us that the flying was on again. We met Lloyd at Smithton
Airport at 10:00AM with intentions of doing a long flight each to look around
the area. I went first then Mary with the scenery being quite spectacular.
Normally we are so busy taking in our lessons that we don’t really see anything
so this turned out to be a great idea. After Mary was finished Lloyd suggested
that the weather was so good that some more circuits would be a good idea.
After doing them for an hour he asked me to come to a stop to let him out? Now
he exclaimed you can do three circuits on your own – Yippee Yahoo Whooha etc. I HAVE FLOWN SOLO! A big thank you to
Lloyd Kay of Bell Sport Aviation.
Sunday we
decided to stay an extra day to come down off our many highs with a quiet day
of walks planned. Monday saw us head for Burnie as a base for our next few days
as we knew that a follow up appointment was coming with the eye specialist. On
arrival we set up at the town camp ground that is supplied free of charge by
the Burnie shire council. All we had to do was to register at the information
centre where our 5 day permit was issued. Towards the end of the day Mary’s eye
was bothering her again and as we hadn’t heard from the specialist a phone call
was placed to make the checkup appointment they had recommended. The
appointment was made for the coming Wednesday. Tuesday was spent visiting Guide
Falls along with several other recommended places on the suggested Burnie area
drive. On Wednesday morning we set off to Launceston for Mary’s appointment. It
is a 147km drive so we were there early enough to have a look around the waterfront
precinct, to make an appointment with the local Volkswagen dealer for my first
required service at 15,000km and enjoy a lunch at a local restaurant. The
3:30PM appointment was all over with some extra laser surgery included by
6:30PM so the drive had us arriving back in Burnie as dark set in.
Thursday morning saw us set off for Waratah, a
small tin mining town on the way towards Cradle Mountain. The shire park there
charges $22.00 per night for a powered site and power is more desirable as the
temperature is dropping. It is a great base to use to explore Savage River and
many of the other attractions in the Tarkine wilderness area. The forests are
dense and fairy home like. Many travellers also use Waratah as a cheap base to
explore 
Cradle Mountain from as it is only
around 50Km to the main entrance etc. We, even though the Cradle Mountain
caravan park charges $40.50 (if you are a Big4 member) elected to pay and stay
next door to the information centre for convenience. The trip from Waratah saw
temperatures drop to as low as 0.5°C as we experienced sleet then snow
while being most concerned of encountering “black ice” for the first time. On
arriving at the caravan park we were very pleased with our decision when seeing
the facilities provided including a camp kitchen in the style of a ski lodge
with two large fire places, multiple barbecues and extensive cooking
facilities. The fee they charge is not expensive when you realise that most
people are running heating most of the time they are in their caravans. Across
the road at the information centre on presentation of our parks pass we were issued
with free shuttle bus passes. Given that the weather was on off on off, on
about 5 minute intervals we took the the shuttle bus for a round trip so we
could plan our next day’s walks. On getting back we drove back into the Rangers
station to look at the displays and took a short walk from there to get our
first look at some of the many delights that await us. Pencil Pine Falls walk
confirmed what we thought in that most of Australia’s Fairies must live up this
way. Saturday morning bought with it fine and warmer weather (probably in the 6°C vicinity) so it was off to the visitor centre to catch the shuttle bus
to Dove Lake. Once there we registered our walk then did the Dove Lake circuit,
a walk that is around 6km long on well-maintained boardwalks mixed with white
gravel (not round stone but crushed white stone) bush paths. Mary photographed
and patted an echidna and a wallaby on this walk and we also saw what we were
told was a Black or Tiger snake around 2 metres long (didn’t pat that). Next it
was from there via Lake Lilla to eventually arrive at Ronny Creek. On this walk
Mary managed to photograph and pat a Wombat that totally ignored her attentions
whilst continuing with its eating of the grasses. Onward from Ronny Creek we
walked to Snake Hill then on to the Rangers Station where we waited for the
shuttle bus to pick us up to take us back to the information centre. Once there
we walked back to our caravan arriving at around 6:30PM. Having walked
approximately 16 kilometres in all it was time for a cheeseboard then off to
bed for an early night at around 8PM. Sunday we are blessed with another fine
day reaching 16°C for us so after getting up early we headed
off into the park, this time driving in ourselves as we were lucky enough to
gain admission for a vehicle, to do some more walks. First it was the “Waldheim
and Wendorfers Forest walk”, a walk that takes in the first chalet built in the
1920’s by one Mr. Wendorfer and friends. Then it is off to finish the drive to
Dove Lake before returning to the ranger station to take the “Enchanted Walk”.
Yet another whole day had disappeared so it was back to our caravan for dinner
and another good night’s sleep. Monday was cloud covered but yet another “no
rain” day. It was decided to enjoy some of the park facilities so after a late
sleep in we headed over to the camp kitchen (ski resort style) lit a fire in
one of the large fireplaces and cooked up a lamb roast. Next it was time to
consume our meal along with an accompanying bottle of Merlot and of course to corner
anyone who should walk in for some social intercourse. A most enjoyable waste
of a day. Tuesday after finding that there was no powered sites for caravans
available in Strahan we decided to abort that destination and instead head to
Mole Creek with a stop off at Sheffield on the way. It was a short drive to
Sheffield where you can find the only marble shop in Australia. Yes that is
marbles as per the game we all played as children. Of course we had to visit
every retail outlet in Sheffield but we were still off to Mole Creek by
mid-afternoon.
Mole Creek was a delight that Mary
loved. After videoing the caravan park and it’s surrounds there was a happy
aura about her so it was time to do a couple of loads of washing to soak up her
mood. Wednesday morning was time to drive to Alum Cliffs for a walk of about 50
minutes or so and on the walk we came across a sculpture done by David Jones of
Darlington, Western Australia. Next it was off to the Honey Farm where we
purchased Yummy Peppered Honey that you eat with cheeses or marinate steaks in.
Then onward to the Mole Creek Caves. We, once there took the tour of the cave
using a voucher from our entertainment book for one of us. .
With an
early start from Mole Creek, after about a 30 minute drive we arrived at
Deloraine at 11:00AM, whereupon we were told that there were no powered sites
available. This sent us to the free sites provided by the shire. Off to the
information centre. A visit to 41°south
(Salmon & Ginseng), Ashgrove Cheese then Christmas Hills Raspberry Farm
that was frankly a Café before heading back to Deloraine to walk every shop
they had. As usual Mary found a bargain but eventually relenting, we were
allowed to return to our little home for dinner. On Friday morning we rose
early and departed at around 10AM with every intention of driving around the
Great Lake in the Central Plateau World Heritage Wilderness area. First it was
off to Liffey Falls where we did the 40 minute walk that is as usual very
pretty. There must be more fairies living up and around Liffey Falls. Then,
across to Liffey, through Blackwood, Poatina, Up, Up and up to Gramps, to eventually
turn back, now on the west side of the Great Lake towards Deloraine on the Lake
Highway. This took us through Miena, past the Great Lake, Liawanee, Breonoa
(where we stopped at the lookout) then on to the Quamby Bluff boardwalk that is
at the highest point on Lake Highway. From there it was a simple down off the
mountain drive to eventually arrive back at Deloraine at 3:30PM. The drive had
been so full of different scenery that by now we felt that we had had excellent
value for our efforts. In total we had travelled 200+ kilometres but to us now
that is not really a big drive.
Saturday the 12th of March it was time to
move on again so with Scottsdale as our destination we took the 110km drive
mostly on the Tasman Highway where once again we found ourselves winding up and
down mountain ranges. The good news is that these slow everyone down enough
that the scenery can be appreciated at its fullest by the passenger whilst the
driver is getting something of a workout mixed with a driving test. On arriving
at Scottsdale we set up in the free caravan park supplied by the town council
where hot showers are supplied at $3.00 (donated to charities by Lions club),
there is water, a dump point, barbecues and a beautiful little park with a walk
just behind it. On arriving we met John & Desley Rogers of Cornubia, Qld.
who had purchased their Adria caravan after following our adventures and
communicating a few questions etc. with us. They were leaving Scottsdale and
had been quite surprised to bump into us. Within an hour of us arriving at
Scottsdale, Leszek and Jackie arrived and invited us to lunch at the local
hotel. Jackie had also been tracking us and had communicated with Mary to
arrange a meeting – They were staying in St. Helens. It was a nice way to spend
an afternoon – Thanks Leszek & Jackie! Photograph shows left to right
Leszek, Jackie, Gary, Mary, Desley & John. After we parted we went shopping
but all the shops were closed so I felt safe. Not to be – Mary saw a cutlery
set in a jewellery store that she liked so after some investigation managed to
persuade the local gallery owner to ring the proprietor at her home. The kind
lady came down to open up and sell us the set. Is there no mercy? P.S. I do
like the set so it is not all bad. In the late afternoon we saw a Platypus
frolicking in the pond next to our caravan. Sunday, town was closed but there
were walks in the park to be enjoyed along with an extended walk through town.
Monday saw us head for
Bridport, a pretty seaside town that is mainly used as a holiday town by
Tasmanian locals. We were allocated site 85 and although on a little bit of a
slope it was well worth our efforts when we eventually levelled the caravan and
sat down to appreciate our view with the beach around 50 metres away from our awning,
the sea water at aproximately100 metres from us. Tuesday saw us take the
Bridport historical walk that takes in the town and passes through
the caravan park.
On Wednesday Mary decided to shout us both a game of
golf at Barnbougle Dunes Golf Links. It is a world renowned golf course with
its own aircraft flying people in from Launceston airport several times a day.
We were awesome with Mary scoring a 71 and myself coming in a close second with
73. Everyone in the bar was quite impressed with comments like “you must play
here regularly etc.” There was a sudden loss of interest when it became known
that we had only played 9 holes and had stopped on the 10th known to
most as the 19th. On leaving the golf club it was back to our
caravan to publish this before continuing our celebrations at the local hotel.
We had also visited “The Lost Farm” golf course just a short drive away from
Barnbougle (that was developed by the same owner on a farm that was lost to
sand dunes blowing in from the coast) so we had a lot to talk about in the
evening at dinner. After dinner Mary blew $3.00 on the pokies before we left
and retired early.
Thursday saw us head to Launceston in readiness for
Mary’s appointment with the eye specialist on Friday morning. It was a 7:45AM
appointment so the rest of the day would be ours. After Mary had been given the
all clear we headed to Jackson Volkswagen to leave
the VW Tiguan for its first service. The service
centre was immediately across the road from “Tamar River Cruises” and as I had
found a shopping voucher (buy one get one free) we walked across and took the
$115.00 four hour river cruise which included morning tea and lunch. Great
cruise! Just before we arrived back Jackson Volkswagen called to say our car
was ready. We went in to pick it up and Amanda (the service manager) suggested
that if we wanted to walk into Launceston central that we could leave our car
where it was as long as we were back before 6PM. Sadly we took the offer
because Mary found a frock she wanted. Saturday was Crazy Sale Day in
Launceston so lucky us, we were able to spend the whole day in Launceston
shopping and yes Mary found something she needed. Sunday morning we went on the
Cataract Gorge walk from the city end leaving from just under Kings Bridge. It
is a nice walk that was originally built in the 1890’s at a cost we were told
of around £1000.00. It has been rebuilt since then and we very much enjoyed it
even though we do not understand how we missed it on our last trip when we
visited the Cataract Gorge from another entry point. The afternoon drew me back
to the caravan to watch some car racing so the day was ended on another high.
Monday morning it was off to Campbell Town.
Once again it is a short drive but once there we parked at the top of the town
and walked its length to the Bridge before returning three hours later with
having visited every shop on the way. The carvings at the bridge where three
very large trees have been removed are beautifully done. After leaving Campbell
Town it was another 12 kilometres to get to the historic town of Ross. Ross has
a historic walk that takes in the “Female Factory” that actually made baby
bonnets, spun wool, did sewing, knitting etc. Ross is well worth a visit with
its many tourist oriented stores and many travellers use it as a halfway stop
on the Trip to Hobart. They also have cannon at the top of the main street that
conjures thoughts of potential mischief. From Ross it was off to Hobart via
Oatlands where we stopped for
a quick look through a couple more
antique stores. From there Mary wanted to take the Richmond road so, 9 or 10 km
from Oatlands on the A1 we did so, but we would not recommend it to anyone as
it was so rough that we lost items off shelves that had survived all of our
travels on this trip to date. On arrival at the Discovery Hobart caravan park
we were very disappointed to find some of the worst caravan sites we have ever
experienced. They are advertised as en-suite sites but ours with having its
en-suite about 50 metres away from our caravan site should probably be known as
a private bathroom site. My original plan was to stay at the Glenorchy
showground and frankly I wish I had stayed with the plan. Once set up, we
immediately set off for the Cadbury factory to do their tour. It is now a much
shortened tour but still well worth going on. After the demonstrations and
movie we were let loose into the visitor shop where we purchased 10 kilograms
of Lemon Cheesecake Roses chocolates for $10.00. If Mary gets sick of chocolate
yay but somehow I don’t think so!
Thursday
after booking for the 1PM tour, saw us head to the Cascade Brewery to do it. We
arrived early so decided to have lunch in the restaurant there. Yum! Both of us
enjoyed one of the nicest restaurant meals we had had in Tasmania. At 1PM sharp
our tour departed with our being again lucky to have a guide who obviously
enjoyed his job. After 1½ hours we arrived back at the museum where we were all
treated to a drink of one of the Cascade products of our choice. From there it
was back to the restaurant bar where everyone was given two more drinks to end
the tour. Full of history, information, food etc we finally headed homeward at
around 3:45PM.
Friday we
decided to drive southward from Hobart to Southport. After travelling about 107
km we arrived at a jetty on the ocean in a bay. That was Southport whoops maybe
a big drive for very little. In fairness there was a public toilet and around
the corner, along a bit there were some holiday homes etc. Mary suggested that
we should go back out to and further down the highway to Ida Bay. The road
degenerated into a half and half bitumen and gravel concoction and when we did
arrive at our new destination we found that Ida Bay had even less than
Southport. It was decided to return to Hobart via Huonville but it must be said
that we have been to Southport. On the way back we stopped at Geeveston where
there are many life size carvings of local personalities that are well worth a
look – maybe Geeveston should have been our original destination. It was then
on to Huonville for a
look around before returning to
Hobart.
Saturday is
Salamanca markets day in Hobart so it was off at dawn or around 11AM. We found
a park near the markets then proceeded to walk up one side followed by down the
other side. It is all now quite expensive and suffers from frequent repetition.
After we had finished looking at every stall we walked back along the wharf,
had something to eat for lunch then spotted the “Bob Barker” of Sea
Shepherd.org fame. They were offering free tours, something we were quick to
accept. The volunteers are passionate of their cause but do offer a good
argument for their positions on whaling. I did not know that the Japanese were
hunting whales in sanctuaries when they come down near the Antarctic. We were
shown everything of the ship. Next it was off for a walk around Hobart before
returning to our caravan with yet another day gone. Nope! – At 11:27PM we
received through our mobile phones a message with pictures reminding us that we
had missed my mother’s birthday party but showing an effigy giving us
representation. They had apparently been carefully prepared by my sister and
were it would appear enjoyed by all that were present.
Sunday was our last day in the
Hobart area so we decided to head to Bothwell to experience the Ratho Links
which is recognised as the oldest golf course in Australia and the oldest known
golf course still existing outside of Scotland.
We ran into
a gentleman who joined us for our nine holes and gave us a lot of tips on the
way. If you don’t count his score and we didn’t, Mary won by 3 shots. Our
scores for nine holes being 59 to 56 – Awesome that’s a huge improvement over
our Barnbougle scores of 73 and 71. From there we drove back to Hobart to watch
the formula 1 race being televised at 5PM.
Monday morning it is off to Port
Arthur. The caravan park there is set in the national park, has a fire place at
each site (fire wood must be purchased at $500.00 per ton [50ȼ per kilo] – bring your own), and is situated on a hill, in the bush,
overlooking the ocean through trees.
This is our second visit to Port
Arthur but this time we decided to go into the main complex and spend a whole
day there. After paying for our pass we were given a talk then went on a short
cruise (more a circumnavigation) of the port that took around 30 minutes
including picking the hordes of school children up from “The Isle of The Dead”.
From then it is off on your own but with the many explanatory signs placed
strategically over the entire complex it is an enjoyable and educational visit.
It took us a whole day to see most of what was on offer but as our ticket was
good for two days we could return if we wished. The following day instead of
returning we decided our next trip was to head off on “the convict trail” that
takes in most of the rest of the peninsular and includes the coal mines
historic site. This site is also well signed and in many ways was just as
interesting as the Port Arthur site. Sadly most people miss this as it does not
seem to be very well visited but then it is free to visit so I guess it is not
in any ones interest to publicise it very much. It took us a whole day by the
time we had finished seeing all we wanted. Thursday it was time we thought to
explore the caravan park surroundings on foot.
The trip from Port Arthur to Triabunna is very
much elongated due to the fact that one first needs to return north westward to
Sorrell before turning right to head back to the east coast. From there it is
northwards to eventually arrive at the pretty little fishing town. On arriving
we made our way down to the jetty to find the Maria Island ferry that we had
booked for the following day to make sure we were happy with it. We then had
time to take a walk to look around town and even to get some advice on the trip
to Maria Island from the Triabunna information centre. You cannot buy anything
on the island so
everything needed must be taken with
you. Saturday morning at 9AM, with backpacks ready we headed off on foot to
catch the ferry. They were waiting all set up at the dock to charge us all for
our tickets (annoyingly adding 2% for I suppose a credit card fee that was not
mentioned) and board all 12 of us in time to leave at 9:30AM. The trip takes
about 40 minutes with the captain giving us all a commentary and some handy
advice on what to look for when we are there. On arrival first stop is to the
ranger station where they check you have a parks pass (or charge a fee) then it
is off on a series of walks that take up most of the day. There are a lot of
ruins but also some excellent examples of 1900’s construction methods for
cabins where old wooden cases were a prized interior wall lining. The Painted
Cliffs at a beach are not to be missed and the old mine workings from the
cement factory are also unmissable. There are also excellent displays in some
of the convict buildings etc. The full day went quite quickly.
That
evening we met a couple that told us about the Mona, museum of old and new art,
in Hobart. We had missed it whilst in Hobart so decided to take the 80km drive
back to see it. Free to visit the artworks are
housed in a spectacular building where on arrival everyone is given what
appears to be an iPod that determines where you are in the building then gives
you information on the artworks before or around you. It is a must for everyone
and we won’t be surprised if people start flying to Hobart specifically to see
it (they also have accommodation available). We decided to stay an extra day to
see the surrounding area so Monday was a laid back look around day.
Tuesday
Morning after driving for around 90 minutes we arrived at Bicheno (we didn’t
bother with the Freycinet National Park which is a must do, as we had done it
on our last trip). At Bicheno there is a glass bottom boat, so after walking
around town it was off down to the jetty to enjoy that experience. The boat
doesn’t travel far but the young man who operates the business is very
knowledgeable and gives a good hour’s worth of snorkeling pleasure without
anyone having to get wet. NOTE - The Bicheno bakery is a must for pie lovers! The
evening was spent enjoying neighboring caravaners company for pre-dinner drinks
followed by a gourmets delight for dinner that had been prepared by Mary.
Wednesday we left Bicheno headed towards, then up Elephant Pass that eventually
ends at St Marys, to experience the famous Mount Elephant Pancakes on the way –
Yes Yum! The trip is up a mountainside, a wriggly road with as usual in
Tasmania, panoramic views every which way you look. After devouring our
delightful pancake lunch we completed the journey to St Marys, which is another
quaint little town with the absolutely necessary variety of shops to cause us
to have to walk both main streets, giving us a total of around 500 metres
walked. From there we were returning to Bicheno but via the St Marys pass which
heads down the other side of the mountains to end on the coast road that we
were originally on (prior to turning up Elephants Pass) only a little further
north. It was interesting for us to see that the natural bush on the
mountainside that was burned out in 2007 is really struggling to recover. Down
the road a bit further the authorities were burning the undergrowth to
hopefully avoid any more high temperature fires causing destruction like this
in the future. The trip back to Bicheno from the turn off is along the coast
with yes more beautiful views to enjoy. Thursday was spent around town doing
the recommended town walks including one to whalers lookout that is worth the
effort and the quite lengthy foreshore walk.
Friday it
was decided to head back to the central highway then to turn northward to drive
up to Longford for a stay of two or three days. Unfortunately we were called
back to Perth, Western Australia, urgently so Mary left from Hobart on the
Thursday night whilst I took the caravan to leave it at Longford on Friday
morning and took a flight from Launceston airport just 14km away. The trip to
Perth to deal with the emergency took 6 days and unfortunately the river that
runs by the Longford Caravan Park back In Tasmania decided to flood during this
time. Luckily for us the park managers moved our caravan above the flood line
so when we arrived back on the following Thursday night it was accessible for
us to stay in overnight before moving to Devonport in preparation to leave on
the Spirit of Tasmania for the mainland on Sunday the 17th of April.
We enjoyed our last day, Saturday, in Tasmania exploring Latrobe and Devonport
city.
As usual
the trip back to the mainland was most enjoyable with our arriving in Melbourne
in the early evening. From there we drove to Geelong to spend two nights before
setting off for home on what we had decided would be a quick trip. After
stocking up on food etc. we left Geelong heading for Perth with day 1
seeing us arrive at Clare in South Australia. Day 2 took us to Ceduna where
again we stayed for 2 nights as we had decided to play the “Nullabor Links 
Golf Course”. We registered at the
Ceduna Tourist Information Centre and played the first two holes at the Ceduna
Golf Club. The next morning ”Good Friday” saw us head off across the Nullabor
Plain stopping at every golf hole on the way and even though the course is
supposed to slow travellers down it had the opposite effect on us with our
excitement growing from hole to hole. We eventually stopped in Western
Australia at the Mundrabilla Roadhouse to spend the evening. The next morning
we were up, played the hole there and continued our trip westward with
eventually stopping at Fraser Station where we played our last hole for the day
before retiring for the evening. Sunday saw us heading for Norseman then
Kambalda and finally Kalgoorlie where we played the last two holes of the 18 at
the super fancy course that has recently been built there. Next it was off to
the Kalgoorlie information Centre to get our laminated certificates. There was
still time in the day so we headed further westward eventually stopping around
70km short of Southern Cross at a beautiful free camp supplied by the Main
Roads Department. Monday morning took us home arriving around lunch time with
our latest adventure ended!
THE VOLKSWAGEN TIGUAN – During the trip we have received many questions by email and from
persons on how our Tiguan was behaving and as to whether we were happy with it.
There are a few things that should be mentioned here in that this trip gave us,
during it, the chance to learn a lot more about the vehicle performance with
the weather we experienced. We have discovered that the vehicle doesn’t seem
bothered by extreme (to us) temperatures in that we were towing at down to 0.5ºC and have towed at 45ºC with no perceivable change
in performance be it in power or fuel consumption. It should be noted that we
were very happy with our previous
vehicle but the Volkswagen Tiguan is we think better
in nearly every way. One other thing that stands out to us is in the comfort of
the seating in the car (we have the standard “comfort” seating) that allowed us
to travel all day for up to 9 or 10 hours without ever stopping because we
needed to straighten up. This is in sharp contrast to our previous vehicle
where we needed to stop every hour or two to get feeling back into our sitting
equipment. Now we stop to play golf, have a coffee or just to look at a view
but have also had long comfortable days of just driving onwards. Of course the
other major advantage of this vehicle is in the far better fuel consumption
where we are saving around 35% in fuel costs over our previous vehicle and also
the appreciable extra power available when towing. For reference our worst
situation was in a very steep climb whilst towing our caravan with a top speed
of 70km becoming apparent (in contrast to a comparative of 40km with our
previous vehicle). To date we are very much enjoying our Tiguan!
Last revised:
Date Saturday, May
21, 2011