Our Travels Across Western Australia’s Goldfields to Perth

W.A./S.A. Border, Eucla, Hampton Tablelands & The Madura Pass

Australia's Longest Straight Stretch of Road & Fraser Range Station

W.A./S.A. Border, Eucla, Hampton Tablelands & The Madura Pass.

Thursday the 20^th of December we arrived at the W.A. /S.A. border late in the afternoon. After clearing quarantine we decided to drive to Eucla some 12Km away to stay the night as Mary was keen to see the old telegraph station. The caravan park offered a powered site (no water) for $20.00 with the showers being coin operated at $2.00 for 5 minutes. Both of us being pleasantly surprised by quality of the facilities in the park were happy to be there. Of course we had to go to the old telegraph station, which was Perth’s connection to the world operating from 1877 to the early 1900’s as soon as we were set up – photographed at right. Friday we continue towards Norseman across the Nullarbor with the Hampton Tablelands on our right. The road goes on and on and on with what appears to be no change because by the time it has changed you have forgotten what it was like back when it was different so long ago. It is not until you leave the flats to rise up onto the tablelands at the Madura Pass that any change is felt but then the scenario returns. It is then on through Cocklebiddy to Caiguna. The area between the W.A./S.A. border and Caiguna even has its own time zone being 45 minutes out of whack with Adelaide and Perth (plus and minus).

Australia’s Longest Straight Stretch of Road & Fraser Range Station

Shortly after leaving Caiguna we were confronted with a sign stating that we were about to travel on “Australia’s longest Straight Road”. It is 146.6 km long and is true to its claim. In fact the feeling one gets when getting to the end of it is something of a disappointment that it had to end with a “why couldn’t they have kept it going a little further”. It should also be said that the Eyre Highway is an excellent road in top condition and is probably the easiest drive we have done. Being around 5:00PM but not feeling tired we decided to press on until we saw somewhere we might like to stop. It was fate because we saw a quaint sign inviting us to stop at Fraser Range Station. This oasis is a working pastoral lease and the caravan parking is two kilometers off the road (a relatively good gravel road that was easy to traverse). It is in the middle of nowhere and a place you will want to be. They have satellite television that they re-transmit to normal televisions, power, water (on some sites - ask), no phone cover (but a public phone if you want to contact someone), free barbecues, great facilities and it is just fabulous for getting away from everything. Mary & I walked to the top of the hill and toasted everyone and everything until we ran out of bubbly. For the record they close from the 23^rd of December to the beginning of March each year (4^th of March this year). In the times that it is closed the government has provided a nice free 24 hour stop about 10 or so kilometers closer to Norseman.

Norseman, Kalgoorlie & The Goldfields

Leaving our oasis at 10:00AM after cooking a breakfast on their barbeque it wasn’t long before we arrived at Norseman around 100km further west. When arriving in Norseman there is a wonderful display of corrugated iron camels that cant help but to impress at the entrance to the town. The service station attendant informed us that we should drive to the lookout, which we did, and it was worth it as this lookout gives a panoramic view of the area unmatched by most lookouts we have visited elsewhere. In addition we were told to go to Phoenix Park where an informative display of mining paraphernalia is displayed for all to see. All of the advice was good and we were glad to have spent the couple of hours that we did in Norseman. Off again this time northward to Kalgoorlie where we after setting up took ourselves to the two lookouts there. The first was good but the second where we were afforded a view straight into the working “Super Pit” took our breath away. It is free to go there with a display of mining machinery parked around the fence line. The picture at right shows the “Super Pit” and the dots are the giant ore trucks that carry the ore. We also did the mandatory drive by the brothels and had a quick look around the towns of Kalgoorlie-Boulder that are now seemingly blended into one.

Coolgardie, Southern Cross & Merredin

On Sunday the 23^rd of December we departed Kalgoorlie with a plan to get as far as Merredin or further if we felt up to it. It didn’t take long to reach Coolgardie where there is a display of gold mining machinery, old vehicles and even an old National Bank safe to look at in a garden in the main street. From there it is onwards to Southern Cross then after a refreshing coffee at a “driver reviver” (they do have a donation box if you wish to donate) we proceeded towards Merredin. Just 30 km east of Merredin we were surprised when a tyre on the caravan de-laminated which brought our progress to a sudden stop. It was a pleasant surprise that the caravan did not jerk, swerve, or in an way become difficult to control when the tyre self destructed. In fact the only way we knew it had happened was in the noise of the bits of rubber flapping around and the caravan slowing the car down. A quick check in the mirror confirmed that bits of tyre were flying off so we pulled off immediately and then were able to put the spare tyre on with little difficulty using the car jack. Having changed the tyre we proceeded and as we arrived in Merredin decided to go further as we were feeling relaxed and probably had a little bit of the “homeward bound” syndrome in play. It was not to be as just 38km the other side of Merredin the other original tyre delaminated. For reference both tyres on the caravan had done just under or over 20,000 Km but were showing no appreciable tread wear and the tyre pressure was regularly checked by myself. With no serviceable spare available it was time to call our Roadside Assist (luckily our old CDMA phone had cover). They were great sending out a truck from Merredin to pick our caravan up and take it back to Merredin. It was dropped off at the Merredin Caravan Park where the owners were very sympathetic and helpful to our plight. They gave us the site for the caravan and as we couldn’t stay in it supplied us with a chalet which Big4 assist (no longer available – see RAC roadside assist in “General Notes & Information”) paid for. That evening we sent an SMS to the caravan distributor and we were asked by them to keep the tyres for their assessment as they may be replaced under warranty. We have done that and will keep this updated after we get their report and verdict. Monday morning we checked the tyre suppliers in town and one of them had one tyre in stock. We purchased it and elected to try for home without a spare. A full report on this will be published in the Equipment section under “Problems as Diarised with the Caravan” when the details are to hand.

Home to Perth on Christmas Eve – Merry Christmas All

The drive home was uneventful and we arrived in time to settle in, in time to celebrate Christmas Eve with our children. Christmas day we were able to visit the rest of our family and to start to deal with the fact that our great adventure had ended – Or had it - we missed the South West so may have to do that and bring it to all in the next month or so!

Merry Christmas All!

The South West – A Coming Trip

This trip is undertaken in late February and has its own section available to access in the index at the left hand side of he page.

Last revised: Date Tuesday, January 06, 2009